Antalya is the crown jewel of the Turkish Riviera, a city with some 3,000 years of history and a stylish, modern Mediterranean spirit. It sits between the rugged Taurus Mountains and the glittering sea, and it's the gateway to ancient ruins, beautiful beaches and some of the best resorts in Turkey.

Start in Kaleici, the walled old town, where cobblestone lanes wind past a Roman gate, Byzantine churches and restored Ottoman mansions. The air smells of orange blossoms and jasmine, with Turkish coffee and baklava never far away. Venture out to see the Duden Waterfalls tumble straight into the sea, and visit Aspendos, home to one of the best-preserved Roman theaters in the world. In late winter and early spring, you can even ski in the mountains in the morning and be on the beach by afternoon. At dusk, the call to prayer drifting over the old harbor is a moment you won't forget.

Antalya is a favorite for all-inclusive beach resorts and a stop on many Mediterranean cruises. I'll match you with the right resort or old-town boutique hotel and plan the ruins and waterfall tours that bring the region to life.