Baja California Sur is where blazing desert runs straight into the deep blue Sea of Cortez, and the contrast is breathtaking. Giant cardon cacti stand guard over rocky cliffs, while just offshore lies some of the richest sea life on the planet. Jacques Cousteau called this sea the World's Aquarium, and it's easy to see why. Humpback whales pass through, and gray whales return each winter to calve in sheltered lagoons.

On land, the mood is rugged and creative. Wander the art galleries and colorful backstreets of bohemian Todos Santos, or watch the sun set behind volcanic islands from a quiet beach in La Paz. Take a boat to Espiritu Santo to snorkel with playful sea lions, or cruise the scenic Corridor between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. The air smells of sage and salt, and the golden light has drawn painters and writers here for generations.

Baja is for travelers who want adventure with their beach time. I'll plan the right mix of towns, line up whale-watching in season and arrange the boat trips and transfers that make it easy to explore.