Cairo is big, loud and overwhelming at first, and that's part of the adventure. The desert heat, the crowds, the honking traffic and the bustling street vendors can be a lot to take in. Give it a little time. Sip a glass of mint tea, wander the old streets and watch the sun set over the Nile, and the city's treasures will start to reveal themselves.

Most visitors come to see the Great Pyramid of Giza, the last surviving wonder of the ancient world, along with the pyramids of Saqqara and Dahshur. The new Grand Egyptian Museum near the pyramids is a must for its incredible collection, including the treasures of King Tut. But Cairo isn't only about the past. Its people take pride in their history and in their progress, and modern Cairo thrives in neighborhoods like Zamalek, Maadi and New Cairo, with stylish cafes, restaurants and nightlife. Taxis share the streets with donkey carts, and the call to prayer mingles with music and lively conversation. To really understand Cairo, you have to embrace both sides.

A great guide makes all the difference here. I'll arrange expert Egyptologists, private transfers and a comfortable hotel, and connect Cairo to a Nile cruise between Luxor and Aswan.