Guadeloupe has a certain something that sets it apart from other Caribbean islands. Think white- and black-sand beaches, calm turquoise water and lush rainforest climbing the slopes of La Soufriere volcano. Add charming villages, historic rum distilleries and old sugar plantations, and you have an island that still feels wonderfully unspoiled. The air smells of sugarcane and rum, and the French-Creole food is reason enough to visit.

It helps to know the layout. From above, Guadeloupe's two main islands form the shape of a butterfly. Basse-Terre, the western wing, is wild and mountainous and shares its name with the capital. Grande-Terre, the eastern wing, is where you'll find the beaches and most of the resorts. Around them sit the smaller islands of Marie-Galante, La Desirade and Les Saintes, each peaceful and lovely enough for a day trip.

Even on a short visit, make time to sail among the islands and try lambi, the local conch, cooked Creole style. I'll help you choose where to base yourself and plan the rainforest, beach and island-hopping days that make Guadeloupe special.