For years, travelers treated Lima as a quick layover on the way to Machu Picchu. Big mistake. Peru's capital has always been a destination in its own right, and the rest of the world is finally catching on.

This is a big, energetic city of more than 9 million people, with something new to see, smell or taste on every block. The historic center, which Spanish conquistadors named the City of Kings, is full of colonial architecture layered over pre-Columbian history. Head to Miraflores for ocean views, parks and a modern buzz, then wander bohemian Barranco for street art, galleries and nightlife. And then there's the food. Lima is one of the great food cities of the world, and ceviche fresh from the Pacific is just the beginning.

Lima rewards anyone who gives it a couple of days. I'll build those days into your Peru itinerary, with a great neighborhood to stay in, food experiences worth the trip and smooth connections onward to Cusco and Machu Picchu.